Food Glorious Food: DISH – WOMEN, WAITRESSING & THE ART OF SERVICE Plays Hot Docs

DISH begins with the sort of tracking shot that would make Martin Scorsese proud.

It follows a waitress in Paris – tray filled with entrees held aloft. She leaves the kitchens, winds through all the way through crowded dining room, serves her patrons and returns. In an ant-like manner she seems to be carrying more than her body weight in food, and the room she ferries it through is positively buzzing with activity. Yet without much of a glimpse of her facial expression, we sense nothing but poise and professionalism.

This moment alone is a wonderful totem for this doc. It epitomizes how demanding this job truly is. These women are waitresses, but popular to the wide misconception, none of them are “just a waitress”. Many of the women in this movie have true mettle to their character, and far more patience than we – their customers – ever seem capable of. It doesn’t matter whether they are working in the finest bistros in Paris or a truck stop in small town Ontario, the job is always demanding.

When I asked director Maya Gallus about it, she explained that a good waitress understands that what she is doing is so much more than bringing a hungry person their order. “The female server has a special role in the customer-server dynamic” she explains, “whether it be surrogate mother, wife, girlfriend, or best pal.” She explains that no matter what type of restaurant it is, sexuality does enter into the equation and an age-old power dynamic is in play.

What DISH points out, is that things get interesting when a waitress is serving a couple, or another woman. Then it’s not enough to just make the woman feel special – she’ll be more particular about how and what they are being served. As one Parisian waitress puts it “I attend to the woman first and foremost. If she is happy, the man will follow her lead.”

These women’s stories are told with an amazing sense of pace. An informative doc could have been created simply by talking to these women in the restaurants they command. But DISH takes an extra step and follows them back and forth while they work their tables. It’s a masterstroke since it shows just how lively these pros are on their feet, and makes for a tempo that might well make audiences feel their exhaustion.

Gallus herself is a former waitress. When I asked her about her most memorable waitressing moment, she told me about her first day on the job, when she managed to overturn a tray of 100 shrimp cocktails. After a beautiful crash scattering glass, metal, and an immense body-count of crustaceans, she received a standing ovation from the would-be diners.

One hell of a first day.

That said, it wasn’t her last day, which would lead me to believe that our director might know a thing or two about what makes a good waitress. “A good waitress, is fast, friendly (but not too friendly) and attentive, with the ability to anticipate a customer’s needs. And it helps to have a sense of humour.” No shrimp were harmed in the acquisition of that quote.

Listening to these women in their element could well change the way you treat your server. Further, it will make you appreciate the art of service. The doc combines grace and wit, and might make you wonder how they put up with you as a patron. It’s one of the highlights of this year’s festival and should (rightfully) score your next server an extra few dollars in the next tip you leave.

DISH screens tonight, 9:15pm at The Bloor Cinema, Saturday May 8th, 1:45pm at The Royal, and Sunday May 9th, 6:30pm at The Bloor